For Bethany Hamilton, Surfing Is ‘An Escape From All The Chaos On Land’
Lulu Garcia-Navarro /
NPR
Bethany Hamilton was 13 years old when she lost her arm to a shark while surfing. She went on to surf some of the biggest waves in the world. "I've always been drawn to pushing myself into bigger waves ..." she says. "You're just kind of hanging on for dear life — but also tackling it with all you've got."